Why Russian fish swims by our shelves
No fish! Shop Chinese tilapia Yes frozen tails or salmon imported at exorbitant prices. Well, salmon from the Far East to take difficult. But surely the cod in the Barents sea extinct? Find out what happens, I went to Murmansk.
And what? The city was surprised by the unusual warm October and… no fish. But it said that it was built on the bones of the cod, called the fishing capital. Funny, most of the fish here – from the Far East and Moscow prices: frozen cod fillet 500 RUB./kg. of chilled Local for 260 RUB. I found only one shop. Take today, gone tomorrow. Was able to buy only 26 kg cod. More fishermen it is not, – said the saleswoman.
Feels like cod except that it remains on the coat of arms of Murmansk. “Going to the docks – I decided. – Can’t be that fish really swam from Russia.”
– The house was gone – sighs my guide at the port, head to the fish processing company “Rubin” Roman Kulik.
Really now talking about these places, often used the word “was”. At the entrance to the port of the former plant “Protein” (“I Made the most delicious crab sticks,” recalls novel). The company closed more than ten years ago – have disappeared raw.
Further, closer to the pier, just devastation. Former Smoking plant, ice plant, and the Murmansk shipyard, fish factory look Windows with broken glass. But recessed the rusty docks.
Once upon a time there was bubbling life. Seventy percent of them worked in factories in the port. On one the Murmansk fish factory worked 12 thousand. Now all port less. In the old days, ships at berth stood in several rows. Now all the emptiness – no. While there, notice the little lonely boat, unloaded boxes of fish.
Fisherman Mr. Nurudin recently returned to shore. Was at sea for 4 months.
– Earned 800 thousand a long time Now not going anywhere. Enough money, and besides catching yet nothing is over the quota the company, he says.
As in the sea and no fish? And what is the limit on the quota?
NORGAY ALL BOUGHT
– 500 RUB over the cod! It is robbery, – says the General Director of fishing company “Sevros” Sergey Makhotin.
He was born in Murmansk. I first went to sea in 1976.
– We have two types of fisheries: industrial and coastal. Coastal fishermen (coastal enterprises) have all the fish to put on the Russian coast. But now they have only 6% of the quota. Oceanity who can fish to sell abroad, you can catch much more. This year the quota of coastal enterprises – 21 thousand tons, and oceanistes – 316 thousand, – says Makhotin.
To Norway with the oar file. Only 200 km from Here and drive oceanity fish there.
– It turns out that we have no fish and Norgay (the Norwegians. – “KP”) all complain to the local.
According to Sergey Makhotin, abroad fish buy for 270 rubles, and our processors are paid an average of 230 – 240 RUB On large volumes of obtained a significant difference.
Fish is almost the same oil. Expensive and limited resource. The world population is growing, and the number of fish caught the last 30 years remains approximately at one level. Moreover, in the background grown on chemistry of meat-poultry, wild marine fish remains the last honest natural product. Of course, it will go up and leave to countries with more solvent population.
And oceanity sometimes even deliver frozen fish to the Russian coast. Discharged into the refrigerator and wait until the price will rise. Such fish may be stored up to two years, and nothing she will not. Wait interesting the prices in Europe and fuse in there catch. Even paying for storage, it turns out cheaper than to surrender to Russia.
The coastal enterprises to oceanistes jealous. Let them have the law too, would be all abroad lucky. And so they even pay less: about 100 thousand per month. And the “bourgeoisie”-oceanistes and up to 300 thousand comes.
“But we sleep with their wives,” console themselves with the coastal enterprises. They have flights not more than a week. And those who go in far a few months live in the sea.
A NATIVE OF THE “ENEMY” PORT
Norway attracts not only currency. The ports there. In the 90 years with the arrival of freedom, when fishermen were allowed to unload abroad, they have started to go to Norway. And was surprised to find that there is no normal for Russia, hours of checks, border guards, customs, veterinary services. Once or twice, signed the papers, was unloaded and immediately received the money. Of course, all the unlucky fish abroad. Although now the regulations on the work of control bodies in Russia is given a maximum of 3 hours, back Home try to get. Our ports fishermen even called “enemy”: a reviewer treat as enemies.
In my novel Kulik calls his friend the fisherman, shipowner and asked him to sell cod. Promises to pay Western prices. The fisherman is in denial. Says that have contracted with SIDS and it makes no sense to change something.
– In Soviet times, are annually imported 2 million tons of fish, and now only 50 thousand. Kilogram of cod then worth 51 kopecks, – reminiscing Makhotin.
Press Secretary of the Murmansk fishing port Alexey Bakumenko gives these data. For the first 9 months of this year, the port handled 140 thousand tons of fish. In 1944, during the war, the turnover was even greater: 215 thousand tons. The interesting thing is that this year, fishermen in the Northern basin caught 486 thousand tons – it turns out that more than 70% of the catch was exported.
Exactly the same story is happening in the far East – salmon and Pollock’s easier and cheaper to get in Japan, Korea, China. But there fish still more. And the Murmansk fish processing enterprises now a disaster – nothing to work with. Someone is closed, someone comes up with how to survive.
WITH HUNGER GONE, EVEN THE RATS
Roman Kulik produced cod fillets. This year I had to go, it Murmansk-that the company, far Eastern mackerel and salmon!
– This is not the way out. Just decided to wait to see how events will develop further. We may have to close, says Kulik.
A Murmansk fish processing complex, where the cod fish was also a staple for half a year already closed hundreds of employees on unpaid leave.
Deputy Director of “Murmansk fish processing complex” Victor Sologubov leads me to the shop. Already former. The two-storey building, which is now light-there is not everywhere, only one guard and the wind. Standing idle white equipment, which not long ago lay fish, and cold create the atmosphere of a morgue.
– Rats here? – ask.
– Where? They have nothing, – said Victor.
On the background of the rest of the “Sail” is lucky.
– Factory 13. We used to do the canned “cod Liver”. About 54 thousand tons of the liver were processed per year. This 30 huge ships cargo. Now raw materials is not enough. Began to work with the Far East, begin to make a pate of salmon. And from there iwashi. Out loaded your enterprise work. Previously, there worked about 100 people, now 60, says the owner of the “Sails” Alexey Karasev.
The liver they had not the whole Murmansk. It in itself cod only 5%. Imagine how much you need the fish for production! The liver is bought in Norway and Iceland, there is nobody to eat, but because it was sold to “Sail” very willingly. When introduced counter-sanctions, to buy foreign fish banned.
Now, if suddenly a miracle will happen and there will be liver, canned food buyer’s need to have insurance. Only their cost will be 120 rubles., and in the old days, before the anti-sanctions, only 40 – 50 RUB.
“COD IS, THE PEOPLE THERE”
An hour and a half on the potholes, and then suddenly the asphalt starts. We’re going to Teriberka. Once a thriving fishing village on the Barents sea, and now picturesque ruins. This place Director Zvyagintsev has chosen to impersonate complete hopelessness – lifted here his “Leviathan” the Place, indeed, toskliva you can imagine. Immediately on entering the Teriberka – the graveyard of ships. As a reminder of the once successful fishing farm. Then – the old abandoned three-story building. The feeling that suddenly the war began. Announced the evacuation and the evacuated residents. They left their homes, even furniture left behind. In fact, the local were given an apartment in the nearby town of kole – on the program of resettlement of dilapidated housing. To build new homes in depressed Teriberka authorities considered bessmylennyh. The local school children were small – only for 2 – 4 people in the class. It told me Alex. He ran a fish processing plant. The production closed.
– Also cod is not? – I say I am.
– The fish are. No people, gloomily says Alex. – Don’t want to work, more like plump.
After the release four years ago, “Leviathan”, Teriberka became famous all over the world here pushed tourists. In a tiny dilapidated town is now five hotels. Five! If the film in Teriberka lived mainly poaching, now Providence has cast – rolled tourists on snowmobiles, and bringing them fishing. Catch means. But where’s that cod and salmon?
I go to the local store.
– I have fish to buy… not finding a carcass on the counter, I say to the saleswoman.
That gives contacts of a Sergei.
But he’s drunk now, probably, warns the woman in parting.
But no. Sergey sober, cheerful and cheerless. Fish had neither.
– So where is she? – I ask his eternal question.
– And all the tourists eat, ‘ he says.
He’s right. And here, in Murmansk shops fresh fish is brought, except that small-time poachers. Here’s how those “26 kg cod” referred to in the beginning of the article. Such a small volume immediately and eaten. And everyone who hunts legally and has the right to export, carry fish to Europe. It was best before, but in recent years especially. If ten years ago the export duty on fish was 5%, then fell to 2.5 percent, then the fall of 2016 generally reverted – according to the WTO rules.
Sergei MIRONOV, owner of a chain of restaurants “Meat&Fish”:
The catch should go to the domestic market
– This year, the restaurateurs were left without domestic Chinook salmon. The projected catch of Chinook salmon on the monstrous thing is not true: 510 tons against real 332. Now imagine that on the domestic market only a few tons! Rest at a delicious price sailed in the network of Asian buyers. Right?! Encourage your guest for several years, Russian natural product, and then translate to Norwegian salmon, stuffed with antibiotics, coming to us to bypass the sanctions, under the permitted, often on a fish sticker emblazoned “Production Faroe Islands”.
What to do? Yes, at least do the defensive duties to his fish became profitable to sell to your market. In General, it would be nice quota of only those companies that, for example, give 80% of the catch in the domestic market.
According to the materials: dv.kp.ru